A few months back, I made a visit to Parts & Labour. While the nuances of that night aren’t as sharp as they once were, it was still a remarkably good meal. Good thing I took photos!
Though it wasn’t my first choice for an appetizer, once I discovered that bath chapp equalled pig-face bits, I was happy to make the substitution. Topped with a fried a duck egg and sided with pickled fennel and green sauce, this dish was a very tasty starter. The rich and fatty chunks of pork were nicely cut by the taste and tartness of pickled fennel. And a runny yolk is never a bad thing in my opinion.
A classic equation – peas, oyster mushrooms, and sweetbreads on pappardelle – was boosted by the half-melted chunks of creamy taleggio. A really lovely combination of flavours.
The brick hen, with Brussels sprouts, pork belly, and honey mushrooms, on top of an olive oil mash and sided with pommery crème fraîche. Lots of elements – I thought it perhaps too many when it first hit the table – but all the flavours went well together. The fowl was excellently prepared and I really enjoyed the sprouts.
The second I processed the description of toasted marshmallow, chocolate salted English toffee, graham cracker, I knew that I was saving room for Parts & Labour’s rendition of a s’more. While I love dessert, I did think the apps and mains I’d had that night were stronger. Didn’t stop me from finishing this, mind you.
Superficially, Parts & Labour is not my kind of place – the space is trendier than I care for and I understand the steak and burger are most often ordered by the majority of the restaurant’s patrons. But I can totally get over myself as long as they keep interesting and delicious dishes on the menu. Though my visit was back in March (making details a little fuzzy), I haven’t forgotten that it was a truly enjoyable meal. I’d definitely return, and next time, I’d try to get those kitchen seats I spied from my bar stool…
- Parts & Labour 1566 Queen Street West, Toronto
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