Under a smoke-filled cloche, one of our first nibbles landed on the table. Lifting the glass dome with a flourish, our waiter presented the dish: calçots confit. Calçots – a very Catalonian scallion – is traditionally grilled and eaten with romesco sauce. Here, they’ve done it with the “grilled” component being the “smoked coal” and smoke under the cloche. The romesco is a frozen sorbet-type quenelle on top. I was so excited to have this dish, as I thought we’d missed the season. Lovely sweetness from the calçot, great smoky notes and texture provided by the “coal.”